Tuesday, September 27, 2011

First week of teaching, etc.

This was my first week of real teaching. I taught two classes a day, five days a week: JHS Prep, 1, 2, and 3, and Primary 4, 5, and 6. I teach the Primary levels twice a week, but I'm not sure why. The JHS classes met and exceeded my general expectations—they are all little angels, working silently and diligently at their desks for the entire class period. I had every class make name tags—it’s an icebreaker exercise that allows me to introduce myself, and where I’m from (I showed a map), and then get to know each of the students a little, and start to learn their names. I made myself a name tag as an example with 'KATE' written in big font across the paper, and something that I like (mountains) drawn next to it. I asked the students to do the same. I also made posters for each class, with everyone's name on them, and every day that they attend class on time, I give them a star next to their name. In the U.S. this sort of incentive would have no effect whatsoever, but here in Ghana, I swear, it was the sensation of the entire school. I had kids coming in all week just to check where their name was on the wall. It was amazing. I also hung all their name tags around the room, and that drove them wild as well—I had bunches of students standing around, admiring each other’s work. Small things mean SO MUCH to them; the fact that I care what their names are, that I think they deserve to be written on the wall and their artwork displayed—this might be the first time in their lives that anyone has taken this sort of personal interest in them. In fact, this week as I was trying to ask the other teachers for official student rosters for each class (in many cases, there isn’t one), I came across glaring discrepancies between how a student had spelled their own names for me, and how their names were spelt on their teacher’s roster. I’m still figuring this out…

On the other side of spectrum, the P4 class is a real handful. I’m glad it’s the lowest grade I will have to teach—they are nearly illiterate and very rowdy. There are several students who are clearly mentally disabled, which really complicates the situation. When I asked the class to write down their names for me on a list, several of them didn’t know their names, and many couldn’t spell them. There’s one name on my roll that is completely impossible—he wrote, “Iunbsnt-Flinaaut.” His teacher said this isn’t correct, but I’ve yet to receive his actual name. I’ve come to terms with the fact that there is going to be a very wide range of ability levels between classes and within them. Many of the P4 students wrote my name on their name tags, or their own first name and my last name.

Most of the JHS students are very mature and intelligent, and will probably exceed all of my hopes for them. They will encourage me to rise to the occasion and step up my projects, challenging them. But Primary 4 is going to keep me dropping the bar, trying to come up with super basic ideas. I’m really nervous about teaching them the concept of ‘line’ next week---I’m afraid when I ask them to do a contour drawing of an object they’ll just stare back at me like I’m an alien. And I am.

Notes:

--Ghanaians don’t just pour the washing water out---they throw it, spreading it around with force. There is an art to it, but I’ve yet to understand why they hurl it with such velocity.

--What does it feel like to lay an egg? Is it like needing to go to the bathroom—you just know it when you feel it coming?

--I sat through a three hour staff meeting at school last week, most of which consisted of reading the notes from the last meeting, including the introductory prayer, word for word, from the previous meeting. This was just moments after the Headmistress had given the current meeting’s prayer, which was identical, of course, to the last one, and I’m sure, the one before that.

--Remember cell phone etiquette? Like, you don’t answer your cell phone in the middle of meetings? Well, my Headmistress answered her cell phone probably half a dozen times while leading the staff meeting. All the other teachers did the same, wandering out of the room while talking loudly on their phones.

--Washing double size sheets by hand in a bucket of water is impossible—how do you ever know where you have already scrubbed? It’s a giant rectangle, with no point of reference. At least with shirts and pants, I know what ground I’ve covered. With the sheets, mostly I just agitate them in the bucket for a while, scrub a few areas, and call it a day.

--I had Giardia last week! Fun! Glad it wasn’t this week while I was trying to teach. Last week I felt awful---sulfur burps and painful, bloated stomach. Glad they’ve got meds for that, readily available in Savelugu.

--I knew supplies were going to be slim when my assistant Headmaster came into my room and happily presented me with two pens, one blue and one red. I think that’s it.

--A JHS 2 student, Mariame, came into my classroom last week while I was working on lesson plans. She saw that I had scraps of fabric on the table, and I told her she could make something with them. Within 30 minutes she had cut and sewn an entire wardrobe—pants, shirt, skirt, and dress—all doll size. It was incredible. She also sat down and drew for another two hours---portraits of herself featuring long blonde hair.

--Ever heard of ‘TZ”? It’s the local favorite in the Northern region; very similar to banku, but less sour. It’s a typical Ghanaian grey mush that you pair with groundnut or light soup. It’s pretty much tasteless. I think it’s made from corn. It’s sort of like thick porridge in a ball shape. In Diare, north of me, there's this one woman who makes TZ every night near the taxi stand, and around 7 pm, half the town lines up with their bowls to pay 40 cents for her TZ and groundnut soup. It's an amazing scene, particularly in the dark--the woman working by flashlight, ladling food out of several giant kettles at rapid speed.

--I learned the sign for ‘bad behavior’ this week. Very useful.

--There had been a pile of kente weaving equipment in my classroom for the last two years, and when the weaving instructor started moving it, I began to smell something dead in the corner. I moved everything out, and found not only several dead toads, but an entire stack of live ones huddled against the wall. I then proceeded to swat them all out the door, but many of them wanted nothing more than to be in the classroom. So I began chasing them around the room, catching them between two bowls and ushering them outside. I plugged the holes in the bottom of the door to prevent this sort of ridiculous episode from reoccurring.

--I saw some kindergarten students playing with staples on the ground…like it was fun.

--Stealing supplies is going to be an issue, but most everything comes back after a few hours. A student who sees another student with a broken stub of a colored pencil (any personal belongings is grounds for suspicion), knows it must belong to the art room, and they come racing back with it.


one of the many local termite mounds where I have just harvested some dirt to make clay

some of my students' nametags

My new garden, freshly tilled and planted! The students are building me a stick fence this weekend, and evidently they will extend it into the cornfield to make my space larger.

my desk

one of my classes, so proud of their work (you will notice behind them that I turned around 4 giant bookshelves to make hanging walls. Otherwise, I couldn't hang any artwork--it all falls off the cement almost immediately. And there aren't any books for the shelves anyway!

I made this, and it will be a class project eventually. It's made of scrap fabric sewn together. I also made coasters. Next: door mats! I'm embracing craftiness while in Ghana.

my classroom

one of my best students--he speaks quite clearly, which is rare for any deaf individual.

one of my classes

a mouse hole in the back of Mark's closet! Love the color reveal.

Typical outdoor store in Tamale. All the goods are always identical to the store next to it. Oil, Milo, sugar, soap, tomato paste, repeat. Repeat.

my belated birthday cake, made in the sub-office oven! Oh, it was so so good.

hitching a ride to Tamale in a big truck

Another picture out my door: they just harvested the corn this week

My new teacher's ensemble--two piece

Yes, it's beautiful in Ghana

Hitching is really the best way to travel in Ghana---don't worry, it's always with a family of four...or six. No one travels alone in Ghana. I've gotten picked up by NGOs, Swedish Volunteers, American contractors, etc. It's a great way to meet interesting people doing interesting work.

Some of my neighbors (Mark, Scott, and Jennifer at a spot (bar) in Diare. This is the real deal.

Oh yeah! French toast with fried pineapple and honey. And real drip Starbucks coffee. Thank you, Mom.

Another picture of me with the President and the PC Country Director (I pulled this off of some website)

more pictures from Swearing-In (courtesy of Paul Woo-Hoogenstyn)

(courtesy of Paul Woo-Hoogenstyn)


Wow, look at those ruffles! (courtesy of Paul Woo-Hoogenstyn)

Tuesday, September 13, 2011

Photos of my house

I’ve been at my site for a week and a half now, and my massive house painting project is finally finished. It’s amazing how these things snowball in proportion as soon as they are started. I ended up buying something like 7 gallons of paint, and I really didn’t even have enough. At one point, I accidently bought the wrong shade of blue paint, but rather than ride my bike with the paint back into Savelugu, I just went with it, so now my house is two-tone blue plus green. I think it worked out quite well, actually. In addition, I was literally scraping the bottom of the barrel at the end, adding water to the paint buckets to try to squeeze a few more drops out. But 12 days later, it looks great…that is, until the first bit of moisture or light hits the paint, and it looks terrible again. They say that ‘electronics go to die in Ghana,’ but many other things suffer here as well, including paint, which is no match at all for the insufferable conditions.

Having finished all that I could possibly do with my new home, I emerged and walked across the soccer field to my classroom where I began to sort through the dusty supplies available to me. I was relieved to find that there are indeed some supplies left by previous volunteers, years ago. Paper seems to be the most scarce resource, but I have loads and loads of crayons, and some pencils, colored pencils, oil pastels, scissors, powdered tempera, brushes, and a crusty assortment of other random crafty things. I haven’t poured through it all yet, but at least there are some things to work with.

Just yesterday, I picked up a giant roll of donated poster board from another volunteer at the other end of Savelugu. In my efforts, I became like some sort of white person comedy routine, waiting (forever) for two separate rides to get me back to my school. The roll kept unraveling, and flopping on the street, and it was almost too heavy to carry; by the time my second ride came along, the market ladies were so sympathetic, they helped to shovel me and the paper into a bus. This is just a taste of the difficulties of logistics in this country, particularly without a private vehicle or a large wallet. With a little extra money, I could have chartered a taxi, door to door, no problem, but I’m working with about $7 a day here, so I can’t do anything extravagant. I mean, really, I can’t even buy fruit with my stipend because food is so expensive. Three shriveled, tiny, rotten bananas are 1 cedi, more than 1/10th of my allowance for the day. I have to be very careful with money.

A few notes:

--So, the word for ‘white person’ is different here in the Dagbani-speaking Northern region, but no less annoying, I assure you. The continuously screamed, “Silaminga, buy toffee (i.e. buy me candy)!!!!” that I hear from every child in Savelugu is, to put it mildly, wearing thin. I swear that the first thing I’m going to learn in Dagbani once I get a tutor is how to admonish these kids for begging.

--The women vendors in the market in Savelugu and Tamale speak exclusively Dagbani, to the point where I’m hardly able to complete a simple transaction with them. They also use the old currency figures, which are terribly confusing—I’m just beginning to catch on that 5,000=50 pesewa (new currency). When someone tells me that a pile of tomatoes costs 10,000, I pause with a blank look on my face, and then stammer, ‘One cedi?”

--I observe many interesting things being carried on motorcycles in Ghana, like two men and a 3-foot speaker, or a man and his goat straddled with two legs on each side of himself (this is actually quite common).

--How can they have all the ingredients for guacamole easily available in this country, yet Ghanaians don't make it, and don't like it?!? I'm dumbfounded.


my classsroom's supply room--really messy and dusty right now. I'm still sorting through it.

not much to say about the bathing room; it doesn't have a toilet, but it has a shower that works between 10am and 4pm because the school has a solar powered bore hole, but I almost never bathe during those hours, so I use a bucket. I'm still trying to bleach the walls.

2nd bedroom, now an office, and I moved the frig here as well

front door area

near the front door, other side of living room (still working on the curtains)

same photo of living room

kitchen (that's my water filter on the left)

kitchen (I painted those cabinets too)

bedroom

bedroom

bedroom

After helping Mark clean his new house (it was disgusting, with cobwebs everywhere and giant spiders and mouse droppings), his neighbor 'invited us to dinner,' which means he brought us food. Fufu and light soup with chicken (I don't eat the chicken); we ate out of the same bowl, which is customary.

my hallway

What I can buy at the Savelugu market

Monday, September 5, 2011

More Details

the living room of my new house, freshly painted and with a brand new frig (there's no room in the 'kitchen' for a frig). I still need to make some better curtains.

out my door

looking out from my porch

my new (used) Trek mountain bike and the men who sold it to me!

Kumasi bike market

I pulled this photo off of someone else's Facebook page--pretty awesome.

I’m going to catch you up a bit with more details; some of this will be reiterating info that was in the photographs I posted a few days ago.

After saying goodbye to our homestay families, we boarded several buses that took us back to Accra and Valley View University, where we stayed for 3 nights. Swearing-In occurred at the American Ambassador’s residence, which is really beautiful and huge and has a pool (off limits to us). The ceremony itself wasn’t too painfully long or boring, although none of the speakers said anything revelatory. It was nice to be involved in three different performances throughout the afternoon; it kept me on edge enough to sit through the many formalities and uninspired oration. I danced in a big group dance (Ghanaian style), and then in another smaller partner dance, and then I performed a signed version of ‘Heal the World’ with the 5 other deaf-education girls. This sign language performance was broadcast on Ghanaian national television (or so I've been told by my language trainer, who saw me on tv). After the ceremony, we were given drinks and cake and appetizers, and then were herded back onto buses and driven out to Valley View to spend the evening. Later that night, we were told that we would not be leaving the next morning as planned, but would be staying another night so that we could meet the president of Ghana at his castle. The purpose of this visit would be to recreate the 1961 photograph with President Kwame Nkrumah that was taken when the first group of PC volunteers arrived 50 years ago. We were given very few details about the following day’s event, and it seemed like plans could change at any moment. And they did. Several times. The next day, we were driven back into Accra to the PC office with our luggage, and were told to be patient and wait for further instructions. With my free time, I was able to finally withdraw a portion of my ‘settling-in allowance’ directly from the bank, after having tried numerous ATMs to no avail. Before 2pm, we were back on the buses and driven to the president’s castle, situated right on the ocean. It is a beautiful white building; however, I can say little else about it, because I did not see the inside of it. We were escorted directly to the backyard gardens, where tents and fancy chairs had been set up, as well as a red carpet (not for us). Some time later, President John Atta Mills, walked down the steps and across the red carpet, sat down at the head of our grouping. There were many members of the Ghanaian media present, and the event was later broadcast on national television. Several speeches were given, some of which seemed like exact copies of the Swearing-In speeches. Interestingly, President Mills mentioned he was taught by a Peace Corps volunteer in 1961, and he remembers it well. After the formalities, we were provided with a boxed snack and beer or soda. Within an hour, we were back on the bus, and soon after, half of us were on the road toward Kumasi, a 7 hour ride with terrible traffic leaving Accra. We arrived at the Kumasi sub-office around 10:30pm, and all 35 of us found beds or mats to sleep on throughout the sprawling compound. For those who are wondering, a sub-office is just what it sounds like: a hostel/office of sorts, with a library, beds, wi-fi, a kitchen, etc. There are two sub-offices, plus the main office in Accra. Sub-offices are where volunteers go when they are traveling or if they just need a break from their site. The next morning, my birthday (September 2nd), I left early and caught two tros to the massive bike market in Kumasi, where I searched for the needle in the haystack…and found it! I bought a beautiful women’s Trek mountain bike in very good condition. With some maintenance it will get me anywhere I want to go in Ghana. Directly after purchasing the bike, I walked to the nearest bus station and bought a ticket to Tamale. There was a considerable wait until the bus filled, and then some hassle as the guys tried to jam my precious new bike into the luggage compartment beneath the bus. But, no complaints, I arrived in Tamale approximately 6 hours later, where I staggered across the station with my bike and bags, and got a taxi out to my site. Again, there was some struggle to get the bike into the hatchback station wagon, but everything is possible in Ghana...so a few minutes later, 7 adults, 3 children, a bicycle, and about 5 bags were loaded into this taxi. I arrived at my site just before dusk, where I met my headmistress to obtain the key to my new house. It was the best birthday gift I could have wished for: finally, finally unpacking my suitcases and having a place to call ‘home.’

The next morning, I took a tro back to Tamale and bought a bunch of needed supplies for my house, plus electricity credits (to keep the lights on). In Savelugu, I bought some groceries, but since the gas tank was empty and my frig was being repaired, I couldn't cook for myself. My first several meals were groundnut paste (peanut butter) sandwiches, and tomato, onion, and egg salads. Propane arrived this evening (!!), so tomorrow morning I will have my first cup of (instant) hot coffee, followed later by my first omelet…and then, who knows? There are some ancient spices here that were left by a previous volunteer, so I might pull together some culinary masterpieces soon enough.

I started painting my house today as well, and I finished the living room. I had to paint it all by hand with a brush, because I couldn’t find anything like a drop cloth, and the roller I bought splattered paint all over the place. Painting is very therapeutic; there's nothing better than a clean slate.

Thursday, September 1, 2011

Swearing In, Meeting the President



presidential fortifications

snack and beer at the President's house

meeting the president and retaking the historic photo that was taken in 1961 with Kwame Nkrumah and the first Peace Corps volunteers

President of Ghana in grey on right, U.S. Ambassador on left

press corps

walking the red carpet for our photo

President of Ghana, John Atta Mills (he was taught by a PC volunteer in 1961)

President of Ghana

chaos getting all 68 of us and our luggage to the president's event (there are actually 69, but Mark went home to the US for his sister's wedding directly after swearing in)

beach in Accra

beach in Accra

It was a national holiday, so the beach in Accra was packed!

cake at Swearing-In, mmm yum; I ate a part of the American flag's stars

Minister of Foreign Affairs (he attended my school in Savelugu before it was a school for the deaf)

partner dance

partner dance

partner dance with me in the middle

partner dance

group dance

group dance at Swearing-In

dance at Swearing-In (I'm behind the woman in the white dress)

giving the oath at Swearing-In

U.S. Ambassador to Ghana

performing in front of the Ambassador and the Minister of Foreign Affairs

art girls signing 'Heal the World' at Swearing-In (this was later broadcast on Ghanaian National Television)

Swearing-In

art girls doing the sign for 'lama' at Swearing-In

art girls at Swearing-In, doing a sorority pose

the math teacher group

waiting around before Swearing-In at the Ambassador's house


outside the ambassador's house